Vienna’s Palmenhaus

Perhaps my favorite part of Vienna is its café culture; home to some of the best coffee and cakes you will find in Europe, they are more than just a place to grab a snack or your caffeine boost. In the past, they’re where intellectuals such as Freud, and major politicians met to work and discuss ideas, sometimes play a round of chess. While this is still true today, coffeehouses are now also home to tourists, friends who love to people watch, and any resident who suffers from an apartment without air conditioning in July.

No two cafés are remotely alike, and they’re everywhere. From the famous Café Sacher to the newly opened and critically acclaimed Jonas Reindl, each has its own character waiting to be discovered. For me, it was Café Palmenhaus (conveniently next door to the National Library when too much time had passed wading through research). Palmenhaus also serves as a perfect crossroads within the city, and a symbol of Vienna’s evolution. Sandwiched between the Hofburg (once the Imperial Palace), the Albertina (another palace converted into a museum), and in view of the Opera (no longer exclusively for aristocrats), Palmenhaus manages to plant itself in the heart of the city while feeling like a cool oasis overlooking a park (which, too, used to be the royal garden of the Emperor).

 

Why can’t you play cards in Namibia?

Because of all the CHEETAHS!

But actually…

Namibia has the highest population of cheetahs in the world, at around 3,000 of the estimated 12,000 left. That’s about 25% of the world’s cheetah population. However, 90% of Namibia’s cheetahs live on privately owned farmland, which creates conflict between the farmers trying to “save” their livestock and the cheetahs who need habitat. In reality, only about 3% of the cheetahs’ diet consists of livestock. Cheetahs, being a daytime hunter, gets largely blamed for nocturnal large cat kills.

The CCF has made wonderful progress with educating the farming community about the cheetah, as well as with cheetah interaction prevention. By keeping large guard dogs on the farm, cheetahs will stay away from the livestock. Cheetahs are made for speed, not confrontation. In 1994, CCF started an Anatolian guard dog program, where they breed and teach puppies to protect livestock. With the help of the guard dogs, farmers can be assured that cheetahs will not be interfering with their livelihood.

In Namibia, farmers can legally kill any cheetahs that they believe have killed their animals. Cheetahs are very tame creatures that keep close to their play trees (a tree with low branches/ a bent trunk which cheetahs can jump on), and thus are very easy to capture with a cage trap, making them easy to kill. Although Namibia is getting much better with their conservation efforts, as seen with the Etosha Natural Park for example, there is much more that can be done. Changing this law is the first step for the cheetah’s survival in Namibia. Fortunately, CCF has been extremely successful in offering farmers alternative livestock management techniques by setting an example of coexistence with cheetahs.

To learn more about CCF and its volunteering opportunities, visit cheetah.org.

You can even sponsor a guard puppy or a cheetah!

 

 

 

At the Bike Shop

“Olie, olie.”

Laban dips a toothbrush in an old Stork fat spread container filled with chain oil and motions toward the bike chains. He then hands me both items.

 

For the first three weeks of the seminar, I, along with one other student, volunteered at the King’s Daughters bicycle shop in Windhoek. On the first day, I went in eager to learn about bikes and ready to practice the elementary Oshiwambo I had picked up from language classes at the University of Namibia.

But there was a slight problem. The head bike mechanic, Laban, spoke neither English nor Oshiwambo. He could only speak Afrikaans. So Laban would demonstrate the task – fixing brakes, changing tires, or lacing wheels – and we would copy him. The hands-on nature of the work made the language barrier less of an issue, but there were moments – like looking for the correct wrench size – when communicating with words would have been far simpler.

Although English is the official language of Namibia, more than eleven languages are spoken in a relatively small population of 2.3 million. Volunteering at the bike shop provided a glimpse into the highly multilingual character of Namibian society. Customers would start speaking in Herero or Oshiwambo only to realize that they could not communicate with the bike shop workers. Then some would switch to Afrikaans or English. There was also a group of primary school boys who would routinely bring their bikes to the shop and race each other on the sandy terrain, shouting in Damara.

 

Once the task is finished, I turn to Laban.

After inspecting the chains, he grins and gives me a thumbs-up. And that is enough.

King’s Daughters Bicycle Shop in Katutura, Windhoek

King’s Daughters Bicycle Shop in Katutura, Windhoek

 

 

The Land of Zeus and the Olympians

The first time I heard about Greece was during a history class back in elementary school. We were discussing what one would expect to be discussed about ancient Greek civilization: the history, the politics, the culture, the geography, etc. Of everything discussed, what captivated my attention the most was the mythology that came from the Greeks. I started reading all the stories about the gods that lived on Mount Olympus and of the heroes that were born and lived in Greece. At some point between reading about Hercules’s 12 labors and Odysseus’s long trip home, I vowed to one day visit the land that was home to all of these captivating stories.

Now more than a decade after I was enchanted by Greece’s mythology, thanks to this Global Seminar, I was finally able to travel to Zeus’s domain. And what a domain it is! No matter where I went there were beautiful landscapes to be seen. Imposing mountains, never ending seas, and gloriously blue skies were basically always present. Make the effort to walk up (or cab up) to the highest points in the cities and you are rewarded with beautiful panoramic views. Hike through Mount Olympus and you will understand why the ancient Greeks believed that the gods resided there. All the beaches aside from having clear blue waters also had magnificent views of the surrounding mountains adding to the wow factor. Greece, simply put, is breathtaking and awe inspiring and although I took pictures and videos, there is no replacement for being there and seeing it all with your own eyes.

(Click on pictures for better view)

Thessaloniki from the Wall

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Thessaloniki from a Monastery

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Thessaloniki from a Boat

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Agia Triada Beach

Vineyard near Vergina

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Corfu

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Waterfall in Mount Olympus

Apollo saying hi on our way to Corfu

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Athens from Lycabettus Hill

Parthenon on top of the Acropolis

As breathtaking and awe-inspiring as Greece is on its own, it wouldn’t have been the same if I hadn’t shared it with the 14 others in the Global Seminar. I went in not knowing anyone and not knowing what to expect, but coming out, I am happy that I am able to call them all my friends. Whenever I think of Greece, not only will I think of its mythology and landscape, but I will also fondly think of all the laughs, experiences, and memories that we shared in such an amazing place. If any of you are reading this I would just like to say ευχαριστώ! and see you in the fall!

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The Θεσσαλονίκη Crew

The culture* of rice

 

If I were to ask you what Japan produces, chances are you would say something along the lines of “cars, TVs, cellphones, video games”. And in our travels outside of Kyoto, we did see many factories that produced just those and more. But there was something else that dominated the landscape as far as the eye could see: rice paddies. Rows upon rows of rice plants, neatly organized in rows and columns, seemed to change in front of our eyes between being arranged in horizontal, diagonal and vertical lines as our bus sped past and our point of view changed. (We spent six weeks studying, among other things, this effect as seen in gardens. It was refreshing to see it manifest itself outside of them.)

From the fields...

From the fields…

...to the table.

…to the table.

Rice is an extremely important staple of Japanese diet. All the traditional kaiseki meals we had, from breakfast to dinner, were accompanied by a bowl of white rice. Faced with its presence everywhere, it’s hard to guess the veritable economic war surrounding it. After World War II, bans and exorbitant tariffs were placed on imported unprocessed rice. Though they are not as strict anymore, the result is that the Japanese pay much more than Americans for the same amount of rice. But that does not seem to deter them, and rice can be found in your meal (think sushi), your dessert (daifuku: a rice cake, or mochi, filled with a sweet paste), your drink (sake anyone?). And in all its forms, it’s simply delicious.

 

 

*culture, noun

BrE /ˈkʌltʃə(r)/    NAmE /ˈkʌltʃər/

1. [uncountable] the customs and beliefs, art, way of life and social organization of a particular country or group

[…]

5. [uncountable] (specialist) the growing of plants or breeding of particular animals in order to get a particular substance or crop from them

From Oxford Advanced Learner’s Dictionary

(The lack of) Water in Windhoek

When telling my family and friends that I would be going to Namibia over the summer, one of the first things that always came up was “Isn’t that country a complete desert?” And without fail, after I had more or less affirmed their suspicions, they would ask about water. How would I get any? How do people live in such an arid place? Why do people live in such an arid place? At the time, I couldn’t answer their questions well because I really hadn’t given it much thought before actually arriving in the country. But, as expected, after arriving in Namibia it became clear to me that the country’s history with water conservation was a long and complicated one. One which was still in the process of being written- which was evidenced by the severe drought that had been ailing the capital city of Windhoek since the end of the rainy (or not so rainy in the case) season of 2015.
As a class, one of our first encounters with water conservation came during our lecture class. This may seem surprising because we had been living in the country for a while already by that point- wouldn’t we have come in contact in some way with the shortage of water? The answer is pretty much no. We were stayed in a fairly touristy and very nice guesthouse, which was fitted with private bathrooms in most rooms as well as an outdoor pool. These things caused me to not even realize there was a severe drought going on in the city until I researched the topic more, and talked to some of the local kids. Even as we travelled more, it was evident that there was an unspoken agreement that any “nice” accommodation would not bother the tourists about the drought more than maybe a sign in the bathroom asking politely to not leave the sink on while brushing teeth. This lack of a communication was one of the major issues with water conservation that the country was still experiencing.
As I mentioned previously, we discussed the history of water scarcity in class before we were even able to experience it ourselves. Since the indigenous peoples had inhabited this land, they had decided where to live based on the availability of water. This caused many of them to live nomadic lifestyles. They also utilized (and still do) boreholes, which are deep holes in the ground that are often dug near or on dried riverbeds during the winter (dry) season. We encountered one of these holes on our way to Etosha National Park, however it was not functional (or possible the water was not high enough quality to drink) because water was being allowed to pour out and create a watering hole for nearby animals. (Pictured below).
The scarcity of water was also utilized as a form of combat in the struggle between colonial powers (Germany) and the indigenous peoples. For example, in 1904 in the midst of the German struggle to control Namibia and suppress its indigenous peoples, the German commander Von Trotha took into consideration the fact that they were fighting near the Omaheke desert. When surrounding the Herero people, who were gathered at Watergate, Von Trotha purposely left the south-eastern part of his army weaker because if any Herero were to escape that way, they would be driven into the desert and most likely killed due to a lack of water. More people ended up escaping via this route than Von Trotha anticipated, however, and after only a couple of days in pursuit, his troops were forced to turn back due to a dearth of water. A very few number of the Herero people were able to survive the journey due to their experience of living in the aridity- however, vast numbers of them were killed due to the conditions.
Moving back to present day, it was possible to understand the water situation in Windhoek, where we stayed for most of the trip. The city has developed many technologies to aid in the combating of the almost constant water shortage, and the government has become more diligent about correctly informing the city residents of how dire the situation is at any given time. Currently, there are four main ways by which Windhoek fulfills its water needs. Surface water can be obtained from the Von Bach, Swakoppoort or Omatako dams, ground water can be gathered from over 50 municipal boreholes around the city, or water can be reclaimed through one of the cities three famous water reclamation facilities. While the system they have in place is effective in delivering water to the population, it is not perfect. As mentioned before, the biggest problem I experienced with the water shortage was that tourists were not explicitly made aware of it (and tourism is one of the country’s more profitable industries). More often than not, when our seminar all went out to dinner together (~16-20 people depending on the night), we were brought individual water bottles, and if someone wanted more, they were given multiple without any question. The waste was painful to watch, and one of the only indicators of the water shortage in the country was the fact that water was not free with any meal.

The watering hole that was created as a consequence of this borehole.

The watering hole that was created as a consequence of this borehole.

The borehole itself.

The borehole itself.

What remains: Food

It has been only 3 days since I have been back yet my adventure in Kyoto feels like it occurred ages ago. In a state of severe jet lag, I find myself remembering everything I learned in the country I fell in love with. One of the many parts I loved was the food. This has been the first time in my life I have willingly eaten so many vegetables and enjoyed them!

Food

Before my stay in Kyoto I would see the meals as they are shown in tv and I used to think that the serving size was too small to ever be satisfied. Most meals are a main dish and have small servings around it. The main dish may be some type of meat mixed with some vegetables while the side dishes could range from miso soup to rice to pickled vegetables or tempura vegetables. In general you find rice in most meals either as a side dish or part of the main dish. Regardless of the meal, one thing I learned is that those small servings actually leave you more than satisfied.

Kaiseki is a traditional dinner with multiple main courses and delicious delicacies you will probably never taste again. The meal generally has an appetizer, sashimi, a simmered dish, a grilled dish, and a steamed course aside from other small side dishes that tend to incorporate some local ingredients. Aesthetics are very important in Japanese culture thus this meal requires that the food is placed and prepared in such a way that not only does it taste amazingly but so that it is also aesthetically pleasing.

Only one of the many courses in kaiseki. The aluminum bowl is for the boiled food part of the meal. The meat and vegetables on the right are placed in the aluminum bowl to boil.

In the Mountains Around Kyoto: Fushimi Inari Taisha

Now while anyone who knows a thing or two about tourism in Kyoto has probably heard more than enough about the Fushimi Inari shrine, after having visited this gorgeous, sprawling, mountain shrine myself I honestly think it deserves its fame. Since I was already interested in visiting Shinto shrines, loved hiking mountains and knew Fushimi Inari was one of the largest and well known in Kyoto, deciding to visit was a no-brainer for me. I visited a lot of gorgeous places during my month and a half there but I honestly think Fushimi Inari was one of my favorites.

The beautiful forests of the mountain!

The beautiful forests of the mountain!

Whether it was the thousands of stunning, scarlet Tori Gates framing the path to the mountain summit, the ancient fox statues and shrines to the Shinto deity of rice and wealth (called Inari Okami) represented by its fox messengers dotting the path, or the towering pines and bamboo rustling in the breeze, I was enthralled by the space from start to finish.

The famous Tori-gates.

The famous Tori-gates.

Me in the bamboo forest halfway up Fushimi Inari

Me in the bamboo forest halfway up Fushimi Inari

One of the fox satues at Fushimi Inari

One of the fox satues at Fushimi Inari

Halfway up the mountain there is even a popular sitting area where one can see the entirety of Kyoto shrunken down in the distance. During my long rest there (it was a typical blazingly hot day) I remember my friends and I commenting on how different and oddly futuristic Kyoto seemed to look from way up in the mountains with its raised train rails glittering in the distance and how odd it was to be able to observe such an old city from this angle.

 

Even with the city in the distance the mountain really made me feel as if I had gone back in time a bit and felt peaceful in a way. After we finally reached the summit and payed our respects to the shrine to Inari at the top, observing and imitating the native worshipers who were praying when we arrived, we ended up making our way back down via and alternate path that led through the mountain’s bamboo forests instead of the Tori gate path. It really was a beautiful forest in a beautiful shrine on a beautiful mountain and we all agreed that it was a great experience.

A beautiful old fox statue I saw at the foot of a personal shrine.

A beautiful old fox statue I saw at the foot of a personal shrine.

 

 

MuseumsQuartier Wien: Vienna’s Vibrant Cultural Center

On any given afternoon, the courtyards of the MuseumsQuartier Wien are bound to be bustling with tourists and local Viennese alike. Originally serving as an imperial stable complex in the early 18th century, the space was converted into one of the world’s largest art and culture complexes. Opening its doors in 2001, the MuseumsQuartier offers an impressive array of facilities and activities open to the public year round. Whether you are looking to immerse yourself in one of the many cultural offerings, or just enjoy a cup of coffee in a trendy café, the MQ is the place to be.

The Leopold Museum, one of the highlights of MuseumsQuartier, hosts the largest collection of works by Austrian artists like Gustav Klimt and Egon Shiele. The Mumok museum, with its distinctive modern exterior, also boasts an extensive collection of works by Jasper John, Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, and many other contemporary artists. The MuseumsQuartier is also home to Tanzquartier Wien, Austria’s first center for contemporary dance and performance. A couple of mornings a week, you can usually find me taking dance class in one of their spacious dance studios, then doing some readings on the geometrical lounge chairs in the main courtyard.

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By night, the MuseumsQuartier turns into a hub of social activity. Large groups of friends gather in the main courtyard to dine, drink, and socialize during beautiful summer evenings. Here some of us are, taking in the lively atmosphere of MuseumsQuartier at night, and enjoying our final evening together after a wonderful summer spent in Vienna.

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Postcard Perfect

Learners at PAY

Images shape our perceptions of places and post cards shape our preconceived notions. Upon arriving in Windhoek, there were plenty of different shops where right at the register would be an array of beautiful, scenic postcards of breath taking sand dunes, lions waiting in the bush, traditional communities dressed up in bright pink clothing, and of numerous species of animals all at a single waterhole. These post cards became cemented in my mind and when we began travelling, I expected everything to be just like the postcards.

Sossusvlei

Sossusvlei

And yes, we did see plenty of animals, breath taking views, and some people dressed up traditionally. However, Namibia is much more than what the postcards portray. Nor are the postcards any new feature of Namibian life. They were used as early as German colonialism in the colonies for means of manipulation, whether through scenes of empty landscapes to attract colonists or in horrifying and violent pictures of black suppression to reinforce their notions of racial supremacy at the time.

Cheetah Conservation Fund

Cheetah Conservation Fund

During our time in Namibia, both traveling and in Windhoek, we were to experience, both in person and through the lens of our cameras, a vast variety of things. We saw great sand dunes but also colourful houses in Windhoek. There were the Big Five in Etosha but also guard dogs wandering different towns. And there were traditional communities both dressed up and living everyday life in regular clothes. Post cards only give a selected glimpse into what Namibia truly offers.

Open market & kapana

Open market & kapana

A Northern Queen

A Northern Queen

Elephants in Etosha National Park

Elephants in Etosha National Park

Campsite under the stars

Campsite under the stars